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 4 Piece Reusable Bamboo Paper Plate Holders 9 New in Sealed Package $0.99 Time Remaining: 5d 14h 59m |
Holders Sealed
How to Choose the right holder for coin collecting?
Choosing the right holder is an important first step in your collecting plan, because the cost of holders can sometimes be quite high, especially if your collection becomes large. There are many types of holders and accessories for protecting, storing, and displaying your collection. Some holders are meant only for short-term storage and may actually harm your coins over long periods of time. Surprisingly, we've learned that some holders, the very ones supposed to protect your coins, are made with chemicals that attack and damage them. Others are perfect for long-term storage and the careful preservation of your numismatic lovelies. Here are your options:
- Cigar box (stogie storer): Inexpensive (unless you smoke high-priced stogies) and great for beginners. Lacks a certain level of sophistication and panache.
- Paper envelope: Traditional and inexpensive. A variety of sizes are available at your stationery or office supply store. Coin dealers sell small 2-x-2- inch paper envelopes made for coin collectors. You can write information about the coin on the outside of the envelope. Colors allow you to code your collection. Sulfur-free versions are excellent for long-term storage.
The sulfur used to manufacture paper causes coins to tarnish, although today most of the envelopes targeted to the coin market are sulfur-free. Another potential disadvantage of paper envelopes: You can't see the actual coin inside without opening the holder and disturbing the coin. - Cardboard 2-x-2s: Inexpensive. These start out as 2-x-4-inch sheets of Mylar (clear plastic film) glued to card stock containing two holes of identical size. The coin is placed on the Mylar, and then the holder is folded over and stapled together. Some cardboard 2-x-2s have a layer of adhesive that seals the holder shut and eliminates the need for staples. Coins are easily viewed through the Mylar windows. Excellent for long-term storage (except in areas of high humidity) and as long as the Mylar film remains intact.
If we had a dime for every coin destroyed by a staple, we could vacation in Bermuda for a week. Be careful when stapling the holder; make sure not to hit the coin. Also, be very careful when you staple the holder and crimp the staples to make sure that they don't damage the coins in other holders. Removing coins from cardboard 2-x-2s must also be done carefully, so as not to scratch the coins. - Vinyl 2-x-2s: Inexpensive and great for handling and viewing of coins. Also known as flips, these 2-x-4-inch holders have two pockets that fold over to a convenient 2-x-2-inch size. One side holds your coin, the other a card upon which you may place a description.
We have a difficult time getting the harder flips to stand up in a row inside a box. The softer, vinyl flips don't seem to have this problem. Excellent for short-term storage. Used by most dealers and auction houses as a convenient method of displaying, protecting, and shipping coins.
Some vinyl flips are made with PVC, a chemical that can leach out over time and damage your coins. Therefore, this kind of holder can't be used for long-term storage. Certain brands are made without PVC, but this causes them to become brittle and crack.
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How do I sell my baseball cards?
I have so many baseball, football, hockey, and basketball cards that I don't know how to sell. They are all mostly early 90's cards, mostly Upper Deck brand. I probably have somewhere between 40,000 and 100,000 cards. Many are factory sealed complete sets, some are unopened packs, some are in 800 or 3200 count shoe box style, those that were worth at least a quarter in 1996 are in card pages, those that were worth 3-4 dollars or more are in individual card holders. I have a 1984 Topps John Elway in near perfect condition, I have Barry Bonds rookies, I have so many more that I don't hardly know what I have. The problem I have is that I no longer am up on who are the sought after cards. All I want to do is get rid of them and will take half Beckett book value just to get rid of them. I just have no idea how to get rid of them but in a way that I can get at least 20-50% of their book values.
So, my question is what is the best way to sell and best way to list what I have?
You have four main routes to sell your cards. Sell them yourself at trade shows. Sell them as one lot. Sell off your collection piecemeal. Consign your collection to a dealer who will attempt to sell it for you. In any event, a collection your size will take a bit of time to sort through and sell. Give up the hope you will get half Beckett for anything you have. The card market is much softer than it was a decade ago and if you truly wish to depart with your beloved collection, be prepared to humble yourself to the reality you may get 15 percent of what you feel its valued.
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